Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Back in the 662--for now

In Africa. Doing what Africcan love

Landscape of Namibian desert

The last sunset in Africa I saw


After traveling to Africa for the first time this May, I have come to the conclusion that Africa is one of the most underrated places in the world. 

Uninformed people who have never visited will warn you about the dangers and how the people are uncivilized, but what the entire class of University of Mississippi students found was the complete opposite.

Earlier last year, I saw a flier that offered a study abroad trip for a photojournalism class that was safari themed. I signed up immediately and planned to attend. I was not going to let an amazing opportunity like this escape me.

We left Memphis after an already tiresome week of finals and hopped planes to Charlotte, NC to New York City for a layover and visit to Times Square then a 15-hour flight to South Africa and a quick flight to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

Once there, we were exhausted, but the excitement of being there for the first time kept me awake. I understood why Eleanor Roosevelt said “poor Niagara” when she saw the waterfalls for the first time. To put it into perspective how massive the falls are, most waterfalls you can walk up to and look from one vantage point and see it in entirety. But Victoria has a trail of viewpoints to see because you have to walk around and around to see the whole falls. The powerful gushing of the trillions of liters that flow annually produce a mist so thick it feels like walking in the rain. By the time I was even a few hundred yards away from the seeing it up close, I was already drenched through my raincoat. 

I chanced my tendency to be clumsy and climbed up to the edge where the danger sign was posted and looked over and the rush from the falls blew my hat off my head and back up the trial I had walked down. There is a reason it is one of the seven wonders of the natural world.

The days following that excursion were very different. The class got on a bus that lasted hours and we tried to edit pictures and write articles on the rocky roads. When we were arrived, we were still in the same country, but it was different as it could be. Instead of the rainforest like atmosphere and hot temperatures, we had traveled to the “Bush.” Now it was 20-30 degrees colder, dry and arid.

We were housed at Nehimba Lodge in the Hwange National Forest. No Wi-Fi, and no electricity when the generator shut off at 10 p.m. On top of that, we had a call button inside our huts that we would press when we wanted to be escorted somewhere at night because there was the danger of stampeding elephants or car buffalo, maybe even a lion on the same path as you.

After the days of seeing every zoo animals except a lion and a leopard, although we saw their tracks, it was easy to forget about being mauled and enjoy the day. I had to consider, in a land filled with all of the prey animals I just got through photographing and writing about, why would a lion even bother coming after me? I have since decided it would have taken a lot of effort on his part and I might even be flattered if he tried, but he did not.

We had the most wonderful guides Ty Hurst and Forest Worsley and another wonderful employee of Nehimba Lodge I only knew as Given.

After we got off the plane, we had tribal dangers do “native dances” dressed in what animal hides, but then they would ask for a dollar and offer their DVD and CD recordings. Very put on and very elaborate, but when we were off the beaten path and in the Bush, people reminded me of home.

Everyone had we met wore regular clothes and most spoke better English than I did. We had a great time getting to know each other and we discovered Americans from the South and Africans from southern regions had a lot in common. They all liked living in rural areas, they were interested in noodling for catfish, what crawfish were, shrimping, frog gigging and TV shows Swamp People and Duck Dynasty are a huge success with locals. 

On top of that, every single Zimbabwean I asked old me their favorite musician was Kenny Rogers and their favorite song was “The Gambler.” It was a surprising fact that he was and still is a huge hit.

We went by train to another camp on the other end of Zimbabwe, with our new guide Brendan Judge. The company was as wonderful as always, but again the climate was different. Instead of rocky, orange hills, the Boomani Lodge was pale, even cooler in temperature and full of Kalahari sand.

We slept in framed tents, with the same generator policy and this time there was the risk that baboons would get into our rooms, but we remained fortunate they never bothered us.

The character of this lodge was “Sibs.” As soon as we got off the train, he yelled at us “There’s a cheetah and we have to leave now! Don’t worry about the bags!”

So we jumped in the vehicle and left. When we got there we saw too cheetahs known as the Boomani Brothers to the area. One male was wounded and the other stayed with him constantly and lade sure he had enough to eat, so it was a special pair to see.

This place left me with a no appreciation for wildlife and breakfast cooked over an open fire, but the stay did not last long enough. The rest flew by completely.

We rode back to the airport and flew to Namibia for a stay with Marina Lamprecht on her 55,000 acres, where she flies the Namibian flag, which she helped design, and the Texan flag.

I loved Namibia more than I can say. I am not a skilled enough writer to detail how beautiful the country is or how the sunsets and sunrises do not compare to anything else I have ever seen before, so I will leave it there.

We have so preconceived notions that keep us in fear of visiting places like Namibia and Zimbabwe. We group the entirety of political struggles and violent revolutions of South Sudan, Egypt, and Libya with the rest continent and forget about peaceful countries like Namibia, which was voted as one of the safest countries in Africa.  New York City was closer to the Ebola outbreak than Zimbabwe and Dallas, Texas had more Ebola cases.

I have so much respect for the countries we visited. Many are new under independence and it makes we wish I had a real glimpse of what America was like in 1776. The citizens are proud to be African and proud to be natives to their home countries.


All in all, it makes me proud to say I caught a glimpse of it. And I sure I’m glad I did not back out of the trip.

Tuesday, May 17, 2016

We're on Africa Time now

Yours truly driving the riverboat


Yesterday evening we arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa after a 16-hour plane ride. It seemed surreal as we touched ground on the landing strip and saw the famous “velt” that was detrimental to British forces in colonial times.

“That’s the reason British started wearing khaki,” the passenger in the seat next to me said, gesturing toward the tall brown grass. “The redcoats were too easy to pick out.”

After a short layover, we boarded a much smaller plane and landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe before lunch. I use the timestamp “before lunch” specifically, because I learned as soon as I went to pay for my visa and pick up my luggage we were now on Africa time. Nothing seems slow, but the sunrise, sunset and meal times direct the activities of the people who live and subsequently the large numbers of tourists who visit every year.

Although most of the eight counters at the immigration station were manned, nobody was in a hurry. They causally asked you questions, looked over every inch of your passport and customs declaration before stamping a page. Even the receipts print on Africa time.

The sunset cruise was on the Zambezi, the fourth longest river on the continent, but without a doubt one the most gorgeous. We saw crocodiles, hippopotamuses, multiple birds I could not remember the name of and other animals. I even got to drive the riverboat. (Raymond be proud of me).

Afterwards, we had dinner at the Ilala Lodge. The menu and the company were fabulous. We tried lamb, ostrich steak, warthog pork chops and kudu Wellington with South African wines. I also tried amarulla, a coffee liqueur that is wonderful.

Our class website will be up and running soon with stories from the trip, so I will be sure and let everyone know when it is uploaded.

Until next time,

Lyndle


Monday, May 16, 2016

Night in the Big Apple



Enjoying a gyro in the frigid (summer) weather of NYC


Day No. 1 is complete and we are spending the night in New York City before getting on a 16-hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. If you were wondering if we are all tired, we are, but that did not stop us from hiring an Uber into Manhattan and seeing Time Square. 

As tired as we were, it was completely worth it. Love it or hate it, there is nothing quite like NYC. And after our flight and the wait we had to endure as a group before we made it to the hotel in Queens, made the street gyro seem like five-star cuisine.

Now, I have traveled outside of the country and I have flown on an airplane multiple times before, but never for a 16-hour, non-stop flight. I plan to sleep and catch up on some reading, but I have made an Africa playlist for when I need to rest my eyes. 

My taste is eclectic, but I have some nice picks downloaded from Spotify for the journey.

1.    “Diamonds on the Soles of her Shoes” by Paul Simon
2.    “The Lion Sleeps Tonight” by The Tokens
3.    “Welcome to the Jungle” by Guns n Roses
4.    “The River of Dreams” by Billy Joel
5.    “Strangers Like Me” by Phil Collins (from the Tarzan Soundtrack)
6.    “Click Song No.1” by Miriam Makeba
7.    “Soweto” by Abdullah Ibrahim
8.    “Under African Skies” by Paul Simon 
9.    “Circle of Life” by Elton John 
10.“Circle of Life” by Carmen Twillie
11.“Sophiatown is Gone” by Miriam Makeba
12.“Diplomat’s Son” by Vampire Weekend
13.“Son of Man” by Phil Collins
14.“Take the Long Way Home” by Supertramp
15.“African Man” by Iggy Pop
16.“Mozambique” by Bob Dylan
17.“Asimbonanga/Biko” by the Soweto Gospel Choir
18.“Mama Africa” by Akon
19."Sierra Leone” by Frank Ocean

And last, but not least, 20. "Africa" by Toto

Thanks for reading!

Lyndle